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Introduction
You are probably reading this Blog because you have already heard of water doping or you are curious.
Basically,
water doping is a method of introducing humid air into an engine to
improve the engine efficiency, this leads to improved fuel economy,
reduced pollution, longer engine oil life, reduced carbon deposits,
cleaner DPFs and in some conditions an increase in torque.
Water doping is so simple that most do not believe that it can work or that it is beneficial to an engine.
After
five years of using water doping systems on our own vehicles we can
confirm that they work and we have experienced no detrimental effects on
the engines, in fact quite the opposite.
This technique is not new and was used
during WW2 to improve aircraft engine performance, the challenge has
always been to make a system that is simple to integrate and maintain.
Through
electrostatic charge from exhaust gas flow, water doping also polarises
the steam droplets and mist which are sucked into the engine inlet
along with the air.
The charged droplets (H2O) attach
to the fuel droplets inside the engine and being H2O (Hydrogen and
Oxygen) enhance the combustion of the fuel at the instant of ignition.
Some of the steam also gently removes carbon deposits to restore efficiency and
the mist can improve the inlet air charge density (an inter-cooler
enhancing effect). We also have seen water doping systems keep Diesel Particulate Filters (DPFs) clean.
We are keen to share our experiences to help others reduce their
pollution, below we will explain how to make an experimental water doping system.
WARNING
No Warranty is implied or given - if you experiment with Water Doping you are doing so entirely at your own risk.
The information provided is based on five years of private research and experimentation.
We
have used approved water doping systems successfully for a five year
period and over
50000 miles on our own vehicles and over 500000 miles on customer
vehicles, with a good pollution reduction and fuel savings, with no
adverse effects.
In short water doping can be
successful, but results vary from engine type to engine type, the usage
pattern, climatic conditions and the installation configuration.
Please
also note that water doping does not work well on static
engines/vehicles being tested on dynamo-meters as engines tested in these conditions are usually
earthed and therefore do not enable the build up of electrostatic charge
to help polarise the water mist/droplets.
It is possible to make
your own water doping system without buying a kit, we will explain how
to make a basic/experimental kit (which will require additional water level
maintenance) but this will allow you to satisfy yourself that the principles
work before deciding to buy a kit etc. A water doping kit which is proven is likely to be more successful
than an experimental and a kit may be a better option if you do not have time to make parts and
experiment, or you do not feel competent or confident to experiment with
your engine.
What do You Need to Make
- A device to make humid air, e.g. a bubbling container.
- A mist heater/steamer, e.g. a heat exchanger attached to a hot part of the exhaust manifold.
- Mist polarisation, achieved through the direction of gas flows (mist/air flow in opposite to exhaust gas flow).
- Venturi to introduce the mist into the inlet and create a small vacuum.
Simple Experimental Hardware
- Copper and brass plumbing pipe and fittings.
- High temperature silicon hose.
- Hose clips.
- Container approx 1 ltr capacity.
Planning the Installation
The following points need to be considered:
- Mist introduction point.
- Short hose lengths to minimise loss of vacuum and air flow.
- Container location, safe and secure, to enable topping up and to keep it warm (but not so hot that it could melt).
Please bear in mind that this
is a philanthropic act of sharing information to help everyone
interested in using water doping to reduce engine pollution and save petrol/diesel.
How to make a low budget
experimental DIY water doping system
Warning
No
warranty is implied or given. Any experimentation you decide to
undertake based on this information is done entirely at your own risk.
This part of the
Blog explains how a budget water doping system could be made to satisfy
your curiosity and prove that water doping works. It should only be
attempted by a competent engineer who understands vehicles, engines
and the terms used throughout this information. If in doubt do not
take a chance. Read all of the information first and then plan as
required.
This budget system
is not meant to be a permanent installation, but it will allow you to
make and test a water doping system before considering making your
own system or buying one (or probably a hybrid DIY and a key parts
purchase).
Parts required:
-
Qty 1 x
Plastic bottle with large screw-on top e.g. 1 pint milk
carton/bottle or a stronger bottle if possible
-
Qty 2 or 3
(depending on petrol or diesel installation) x reducing plumbing
fittings 10mm to 15mm
-
Copper pipe
sizes 10mm and 15mm
-
High
temperature silicon hose with 10mm inside diameter and a minimum of
3mm wall thickness to avoid collapse under vacuum
-
Hose clips to
suit outside diameter of silicon hose
-
Strong zip
ties to secure the bottle in place
-
Qty 2 x hose
clips to fit round the exhaust and heat exchanger
-
Qty 1 x high
flow air filter/engine breather to clamp onto air inlet
-
Qty 1 x
rubber grommet to seal inlet pipe into the bottle
-
Silicon
sealer to make joints airtight (do not put on too much and wipe of
any residue so it cant be sucked into the engine
-
Blunt vaping
needle approximately 2mm outside diameter (for petrol engines only)
-
Vacuum hose
10mm outside diameter (for diesel engines only)
Tools required:
-
Hacksaw,
suitable for cutting brass and copper
-
Files for
removing burs and shaping parts
-
Screwdriver
for hose clips
-
Method of
flattening part of the 15mm copper pipe to make heat exchanger
(hammer & anvil or a vice or similar)
-
Spanners for
tightening the plumbing fittings
-
Drill and
drill bits for making holes (probably one stepped drill bit and a
2mm drill bit will suffice)
-
1mm to 2mm
diameter steel wire/rod to maintain air gap while flattening copper
pipe to make heat exchanger
Plan the
installation
Find the hottest
part of the exhaust (normally the manifold), if possible chose a
location next to the first lambda sensor (if the engine has one).
Find a location for
the water bottle, ideally this should be somewhere warm but also
accessible for topping up and not too far from the exhaust hot spot. It is also wise to seek a location lower than the mist introduction point into the engine.
Select the mist
introduction point, for normally aspirated petrol engines the engine
breather pipe is usually the best point of mist introduction, for
turbo diesel engines just before the turbo is good as this
installation relies on air flow to create vacuum. Turbo petrol
engines are difficult to get working properly so are probably best
avoided at this time in your project.
You must avoid all
moving and other hazardous parts. Also take account of engine rock
during operation when routing hoses.
Make the parts
Bottle/bubbler
Mist outlet
Take one 10mm to
15mm plumbing fitting and remove the 15mm end nut and cut off the
outer flange so that it can be used as a nut to clamp it to the cap
(alternatively you can use packing washers to take up the gap).
Fix approximately a
50mm long piece of 10mm copper pipe to the smaller end of the fitting
(this is to be able to connect the silicon hose to the bottle cap).
Drill a hole in the
bottle cap and insert the fitting from the outside and secure on the
inside with the modified nut and silicon sealant.
Air inlet tube
Take a piece of 15mm
diameter pipe long enough to be inserted through the top of the
bottle (at a point where the grommet can be fitted and sealed) to
reach the bottom of the bottle and protrude sufficiently at the top
to fit the breather/filter. Drill a suitable size hole in the bottle
for the rubber grommet and fit the grommet with a small amount of
silicon to make a good air tight joint.
Perforate the bottom
end of the pipe with Qty six x 2 – 3mm holes suitably space in the
bottom 20mm of the pipe (this is to create small bubbles which are
better than big ones). De-bur all parts and remove any swarf. Insert
the the pipe with the small holes at the bottom and seal to the
gromet with a small amount of silicon sealant.
Heat exchanger
Check the available
space on the exhaust hot spot, try to find approximately 150mm long
area to clamp the heat exchange to. Cut a piece of 15mm diameter
copper pipe to suit the space available less the length of two
fittings (one secured at either end of the pipe). Secure the fittings
to the pipe and tighten the nuts on the 15mm ends then remove the
10mm end nuts and olives. Insert two lengths of welding rod through
the assembled fittings and pipe, then flatten the pipe using the rods
as a guide, do this carefully as you need to be able to pull out the
rods afterwards. Do not flatten right up to the fittings at either
end as this will damage the air tight seal (stop about 30mm short of
the nuts). Once the pipe has been flattened, gently bend (do not
kink) it into a shape that enables the flat part can sit snug against
the exhaust with the fittings standing clear to enable the hoses to
be connected without fouling other parts. Once you are satisfied with the fit extract the rods. Clamp the heat exchanger in
place with suitably sized metal hose clips (ideally stainless steel and
these will be easier to remove later).
Petrol engine mist
Injector
Take the vaping
needle and insert it through the 10mm OD vacuum tube so that
approximately 10mm of tube is exposed at the other end. Insert the
assembled vaping tube and hose into the end of the 10mm ID silicon
hose and secure it with a hose clip about 10mm back from the end of
the silicone tube (to leave space for another clip) ensure that it
has an air tight seal and cannot be sucked into the engine. Take
another hose clip and clip two zip ties to the hose on opposite sides
so that these can be used to secure the needle into the engine
breather pipe. Pierce or drill the engine breather pipe and insert
and secure the injector needle with a small amount of silicon sealant
on the mating faces.
Diesel engine mist
injector
Please note that you must not blank off more than 25% of the inlet hose/duct cross sectional area with the venturi.
Take a piece of 15mm
pipe and cut half of it away (to make a half pipe venturi) for a
length approximately equivalent to the inside diameter of the inlet
duct/hose it will be inserted into, less 5mm (depending on inlet
hose/duct thickness) to leave clearance on the far side and provide a
circular sealing surface where it is inserted into the inlet
duct/hose. De-bur and remove swarf as necessary. Trim and fit the
pipe to a 15mm fitting so that a seating area just larger than the
thickness of the wall of the inlet hose/duct protrudes from the
fitting. Tightly secure the pipe to the fitting so that the pipe
cannot be sucked into the engine. Fit the 10mm diameter copper pipe
to the fitting and insert the pipe into the silicon hose. Secure the
hose to the pipe with a hose clip and add a second clip to the hose
closer to the fitting with two zip ties on opposite sides so that
these can be used to secure the injector/venturi into the engine
inlet hose/duct. Drill the inlet hose/duct to accept the injector as
a snug fit, fully insert the injector with a small amount of silicon
sealant on mating faces.
Connect up
Good unrestricted
air flow is key to success. Hoses should be kept as short as possible
and have no sag that could lead to water traps and ice plugs if
weather is freezing over night etc. The hoses should also not be
allowed to kink, add support if necessary but avoid clipping the
hoses in a way that could restrict air flow.
The air flow through
the heat exchanger needs to be flowing in the opposite direction to
the exhaust gas flowing inside the pipe that the exchanger is secured
to, so trim and connect the hoses with this in mind.
Take the hose from
the mist injector and secure it to the the heat exchanger, connect
another piece of hose between the heat exchanger and the the bubbler
bottle top outlet.
Filling the system
and testing
Fill the bottle with
demineralised, distilled or rain water(depending on your installation
it might be easiest done by removing the air filter/breather and
pouring water through the tube) to approximately 25mm above the
highest hole on the inlet tube (so that any air has to bubble through
at least 25mm of water).
Start the engine and
check that the system is bubbling (Diesel engines may not bubble
until above approximately 1500 rpm, if it doesn't bubble then you might need to blank the EGR) and check that the bottle is not
collapsing etc.
Run engine until the
engine it is hot, checking the security of parts etc. as necessary.
Allow the engine to cool and then check all fittings are tight and
secure. Test as you desire – if driving you should notice an
improved driving experience, if you enjoy this too much you will not
see a fuel saving as you will be using more power.
Hopefully
you will find this of some interest or use. Please don't wast your time
adding critical comments as this is free information that could help
some people to reduce engine pollution and save fuel on engines.
If
you do make a saving on fuel, perhaps you would consider making a small
donation, so that I can improve the system design and offer more free
info. Leave a message sharing your experiences and let us know if you would like to donate or contribute
positively to further developments in other ways.
If you are based in
the UK and do not fancy making your own water doping system, I may be able to help. Bespoke systems can also be designed/made
on request e.g. for long range trucks, Porsche Boxsters and tractor engines etc.
Photos
I have taken some photos of various parts from my experimental equipment (more to follow when I find the other original parts from 6 years ago):
Example of 15mm to 10mm reducing plumbing fitting
10mm end of pipe fitted with silicon hose
Fittings in plastic bottle cap
Using a larger cap size allows both fittings to be inserted in it so the bottles can be removed for easier filling. Also plastic pipe can be used for the fittings at the bottle end as it does not get hot, I used it for the inlet as it is easy to drill for the bubble holes.
Plastic tube drilled for bubbling
Ensure all swarf and burs are removed. The plastic tube can rest on bottom of bottle (but do not seal the end). The small tube is flush with the underside of the filler cap.
Cap assembly fitted to the bubbling bottle
I tried to find the most robust bottle and this on is a sample bottle, it is also the same diameter as most drinks bottles found on cycles so it could be mounted with the same sort of bracket (with an additional retaining strap to stop it jumping out of place).
10mm ID high temperature Silicon hose fitted over outlet tube
The 15mm plastic pipe can be fitted with a free flow engine breather/filter to stop ingesting particles if you run out of water.
Add hose clips to all fittings and ensure there are no air leaks.
